“Women of the Diamond Industry” focuses on the issue of gender equality along the entire diamond and jewelry supply chain. The series provides a platform for women in the industry to tell their own stories and describe the particular challenges they have faced in their careers.
The 15th article in the series is authored by Sahai Ambar Pariddi, the co-founder and head creative designer of the Indian jewelry house Mine of Design, and a jewelry revivalist
A passion for jewelry
and the industry that makes it
Sahai Ambar Pariddi, a prominent Indian jewelry designer.
My journey into the world of jewelry began with a profound desire for financial independence and a passion to create something meaningful. At the age of 21 I embarked by designing a special piece for my sister’s wedding. Little did I know, this would mark the beginning of an incredible adventure in the heart of Delhi’s jewelry district.
It was 1997 and, accompanied by a college mentor who was a seasoned artisan, I ventured into the complex world of diamonds and gemstones. It was a daunting yet exhilarating experience, where I learned not only about design, but also about the sourcing of gemstones in the narrow lanes of the Indian capital, and about the craftsmanship that goes into creating each jewelry piece.
My mother has always had a deep fascination for Bollywood, and particularly jewelry, since she was a young girl. She would watch movies to draw inspiration, and then design jewelry pieces not just for herself, but also for her co-sisters. This innate passion seems to have been passed down to me through genetics, sparking my own inclinations.
It was during this pivotal moment that my father, Lt. Mr. Gopal Sahai, coming from a traditional Hindu business background, suggested I explore jewelry as a career. He emphasized the vast opportunities within India’s expansive jewelry industry, which spans major cities and small towns. He assured me that pursuing jewelry would provide enduring career prospects, unaffected by future marital plans.
Inspired by his confidence in me and my potential, I enthusiastically embraced his suggestion, affirming my commitment to design.
Particularly during the early stages of my business, I continued to seek guidance from my father, who came from a prominent business background. I asked him about the key principles one should uphold, especially since I lacked knowledge about the jewelry industry. His response became my guiding mantra. Focus on building a reputable name, rather than solely chasing monetary gain, he stressed. Reputation can be earned only once, my father also said. When it is built through honesty and strong ethics, it carries more weight than fleeting financial success.
My father’s philosophy continues to shape my approach, as I strive to establish myself in the industry with integrity and distinction.
A model on the catwalk presenting jewelry by Sahai Ambar Pariddi’s brand, Mine of Design, at the FDCI Fashion Show of Accessories in New Delhi, India.
First understand gems, techniques and aesthetics
Like many design students, I initially had struggled with the concept of jewelry design, believing it to be limited to simple motifs like stars and flowers. But, as I approached the period for my industry training as part of my graduation project at NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology in New Delhi), I was like any other designer drawn to experimenting with different metals and contemporary designs for the trending lifestyle accessories of the time.
The company that offered me my first position was primarily focused on exports, particularly to Dubai, which initially posed challenges due to their outsourced manufacturing processes. Despite these obstacles, I was entrusted with a challenging objective – to establish a domestic market presence for their jewelry line, specializing in designs crafted from natural diamonds and gemstones.
This endeavor marked the true beginning of my journey. I immersed myself in every aspect of the business, from setting up local operations and establishing manufacturing facilities for diamond sets, to studying the nuances of jewelry making. It was a labor of love, as I designed over 150 pieces for their inaugural collection. Encouraged by the unwavering support of my boss and his wife, who believed in my vision, I organized a private showcase called Aurum to launch the brand domestically.
In retrospect, those early challenges and successes shaped me, instilling a deep appreciation for the artistry and craftsmanship of jewelry design. Each piece I create today is a testament to my journey of self-discovery and my enduring passion for this timeless craft.
Engaging as a teacher and building a brand
Shortly thereafter, I received an invitation from an exclusive jewelry design institute’s vice principal to begin teaching. I was thrilled at this opportunity to embark on a career in education. However, I also felt a nervous flutter, facing an audience of students around my own age.
Simultaneously, I began building my brand. I did so during evenings, after spending daytime hours teaching at college.
Starting from a modest home office to where I am today, in a bustling studio, each progression along this journey reinforced my dedication to crafting timeless jewelry pieces that resonate deeply with clients, so that they endure the test of time. Looking forward, my aspiration is to continue creating pieces that inspire joy and pride, while leading my team towards a future where creativity and responsibility thrive hand in hand.
Balancing between designing and educating aspiring designers, I found joy in sharing my knowledge and passion. It was during this time that I realized my journey in jewelry was not just about creating beautiful pieces but also about nurturing the next generation of talent.
Navigating through a traditionally male-dominated industry was not without its challenges. As a young woman with no family background in the industry, I was often met with skepticism. Yet, every obstacle strengthened my resolve to prove myself, not just to others but also to the artisans I collaborated with. I immersed myself in every aspect of the business – from sourcing materials to overseeing manufacturing processes.
A second model showing jewelry by Sahai Ambar Pariddi’s brand, Mine of Design, at the FDCI Fashion Show of Accessories in New Delhi, India.
Prioritizing my career
I vividly recall my first showcase held at my home office. Scheduled for 11 AM, eager clients began gathering outside as early as 9:30 AM. Within just an hour of opening, the excitement among visitors was palpable, and I completely sold out by midday. It was a promising start, and from that point on, there was no looking back.
Subsequently, I focused on creating more pieces adorned with natural stones, reflecting my deep affinity for colored stones. Even today, my clients commend these designs for their timeless appeal and uniqueness. It brings me immense satisfaction to know that the pieces I’ve crafted over the past 25 years continue to be cherished and remain relevant, defying trends and fashion cycles.
In those early days, societal expectations often questioned my decision to pursue a career in jewelry rather than prioritize marriage. Over the years, men that I met through the arranged matchmaking system that characteristic of the Indian tradition, always insisted that I give up my career, become a homemaker and prioritize family life.
I could never bring myself to take that step or compromise on my career. I always said that, only if a miracle were to occur, would I consider leaving my job.
I am still waiting for the miracle and I remain single.
Talking about jewelry and the industry
My passion for jewelry lies deeply rooted in the intricate processes, exquisite materials and the dedicated artisans who bring each piece to life. It’s a world where creativity meets craftsmanship, and where every client’s story inspires new designs and innovations.
Beyond designing and creating jewelry, I find myself immersed in initiatives that uplift the very essence of this art form. As a volunteer with a business chamber of commerce, I dedicate my time pro bono to enhancing the craft and supporting the artisans behind it. This involvement allows me to identify crucial areas where these skilled artisans can receive the support they need .
I started a podcast last year called “Carat Conversations,” targeting customers and fellow jewelry enthusiasts. My goals is to educate high-net-worth individuals, who are willing to spend large sums of money on jewelry, about our industry, its processes and its people. I want to enable them to make informed decisions.
Our industry is dependent on our ability to maintain consumer confidence, for it is this that fuels the sustainability of our businesses. I seek to ensure consumer confidence in jewelry made from naturally-sourced products, by talking to knowledgeable professionals who have been able to make an impact in their own way.
Through the podcast, I have delved into the aspirations of those entering the field, and highlighted the expertise of industry leaders. One was them was World Diamond Council Executive Director Elodie Daguzan, who expressed her unwavering passion for jewelry and her commitment to the Kimberley Process as a cornerstone in ethical sourcing. I got goose bumps when, sharing her passion for the natural diamond industry, she said “I will work for it till my last breath.”
One wonderful guest I had on my podcast was Dr. Adriana Traviati . She is a young Australian diamantaire who was able to reach both ends of our spectrum as a geophysicist, with intimate knowledge and experience mining rare fancy-colored diamonds, to supplying to retail jewelers in her native country.
Another podcast discussion was with Molefi Letsiki, a member of South Africa’s born-free generation and the young and dynamic president of the country’s diamond exchange. Today, as one of De Beers nine Sightholders in South Africa, he shared facts about diamonds coming from company’s mines, and spoke about the different roles that the industry is playing in schools, hospitals, communities and in the protection of the natural environment. He articulated with clarity how the sale of a single item of diamond jewelry may positively impact many lives.
As my career has progressed, managing a larger team has heightened my sense of responsibility. Every decision I make now impacts numerous individuals, making me more cautious before taking significant steps forward. Looking ahead, I aspire to continue crafting exquisite pieces under my brand, the Mine of Design, in gold and silver that resonate deeply with people for the next 25 years and beyond.
In every facet of my journey — from designing bespoke pieces to advocating for ethical craftsmanship — my passion for jewelry continues to drive me forward. It’s a passion that not only celebrates beauty but also honors the rich traditions of India and talented individuals who define this timeless art form.
Sahai Ambar Pariddi presenting jewelry by her Mine of Design brand, at Who’s Next Premier Classe, during Women’s Fashion Week in Paris.
